>> Kasoothi (Embroidery)
1.0 Craft Identity
1.1 Name of Craft: Embroidery
1.2 Vernacular equivalent: Kasoothi
1.3 Craft description: Practised by the Lambani Community, this form of Embroidery is native to the Hampi Region.
2.0 Locations (within survey boundary):
Kaddiramapura, Sitaram Tanda, Malappanagudi Tanda, Kere Tanda.
3.0 Historical overview
Lamanis / Vanjaris / Banjaras / Banjaris / Brinjaris / Lamans / Lambadis / Lambars / Sukalirs are nomadic tribes whose occupation was to carry grain and supplies for armies in the field. In the Hampi region they have settled in isolated groupings or Tandas around the villages.
4.0 Work Process
4.1 Seasonality: All Year-round
4.2: Materials and their origins: Cloth, Noolu (Thread), Needles, Mirrors are all now supplied by the SHGs and NGOs that engage them rather than traditionally when they sourced it themselves
4.3 Tools: Needles
4.4 Work Pattern: They make products that are finally assembled for sale on a per piece basis. A single sari can take 2 months to embroider while intricate designs on lehengas for weddings can take as long as a year to complete.
4.5 Products: Embroidered saris, churidars, dupattas, skirts
4.6 Pricing range: Rs.400 – Rs.600 for smaller work while an embroidered sari costs about Rs.4000. Price depends on intricacy of pattern and size of the embroidered patch.
5.0 Craftsperson’s perspective
There is never a shortage of work. Embroidery is difficult and strenuous and working for too long can be a problem.
6.0 Lister’s comments
6.1 Uniqueness (in material / tools / products / location etc)
The women currently engage in this traditional occupation which was uniquely meant only for the community as a means of livelihood. Lambani embroidery was traditionally not a craft product for sale but meant to be a way for the womenfolk to proclaim their status within the community and had an intrinsic role in engagement and marriage ceremonies.
6.2 Socio-economic data based on field interviews: Most individuals interviewed fell under the BPL category, suggesting a low socio-economic background. They also tended to belong to the Scheduled Castes and backward sections of society.